Just a short drive from the bustling beaches and cafés of Varna lies a tourism experience that defies the typical holiday checklist. In the quiet town of Beloslav, where Lake Varna meets the horizon in shimmering blues and greens, you’ll find an unlikely but utterly compelling destination: the last Bulgarian submarine, Slava, now transformed into a museum unlike any other.
Anchored at the humble pier in Beloslav, Slava offers more than just a glance at naval history. This submarine is a chance to walk through time, into the steel belly of a vessel once shrouded in military secrecy. For decades, this 76-meter-long submarine cruised beneath the waves of the Black Sea, carrying a 60-member crew through silent patrols and international naval exercises. Today, she rests in peaceful retirement, thanks not to a government decree, but to the tireless dedication of private citizens determined to save her from the scrapyard.
A Submarine Saved from Oblivion
Slava’s journey from weapon of war to museum marvel is itself an adventure. Built in the Soviet Union in 1959, she was originally designated as S-36 and served first in the Soviet Navy. In 1985, as Cold War tensions slowly eased, she was transferred to Bulgaria, renamed Leninsky Komsomol, and became the fourth and final submarine of her class to serve under the Bulgarian flag. In 1991, she received her final name, Slava, meaning “Glory”.
She went on to participate in numerous naval missions, including high-profile NATO exercises such as “Cooperative Partner” and “Breeze”, where Bulgarian crews trained alongside international allies. Her Cold War career, especially a rumored involvement in the 1962 Cuban Missile Crisis under the Soviet banner, adds another layer of intrigue to the vessel’s mystique.
But by 2011, Bulgaria’s last operational submarine was decommissioned. With no fleet left, the country’s underwater defense history risked fading into memory. Until one man intervened. Dancho Kalchev, owner of a nearby glass factory and founder of the Beloslav Glass Foundation, couldn’t let that happen. In 2018, he and a coalition of submarine veterans, private companies, and passionate volunteers launched an ambitious rescue mission. The goal: to preserve Slava not only as a static exhibit but as a living testament to Bulgaria’s naval heritage.
Inside the Steel Giant
Walking through Slava is an immersive, almost cinematic experience, only everything is real. From the torpedo compartments to the command center, every lever, bunk, and dial tells a story of precision, pressure, and patriotism. Here people can see the reality of military life underwater 20 days without sunlight, 60 men in tight quarters, where even the smallest error could mean disaster.
Tour groups wind their way through the submarine’s narrow steel corridors, ducking through bulkhead doors and marveling at the compact efficiency of submarine life. You’ll pass the bunks where sailors slept in rotating 8-hour shifts, the spartan galley where 180 meals were cooked daily in cramped conditions, and the mysterious code room where classified messages were sent and received.
Don’t miss the torpedo bays. Six massive launch tubes loom in the shadows, along with racks of dormant torpedoes. It’s a haunting reminder of the vessel’s original purpose: to destroy enemy ships before they ever reached Bulgarian shores.
And yet, there’s a surprising warmth here too. Volunteers have restored much of Slava’s interior, down to the polished brass dials, vintage communication gear, and even working periscopes. Visitors get to witness not just military might, but the camaraderie and sacrifice of the men who served aboard her.
A Community Effort with Heart
What sets Slava apart from traditional military museums is its origin story. This was not a state-funded restoration. It was born of love for history, for national identity, and for the people who wore navy blue uniforms in service of Bulgaria.
The restoration took place over the course of nearly two years, with former submariners, Naval Academy cadets, local craftsmen, and private sponsors all pitching in. Donations came in the form of money, materials, and labor. Retired crew members returned to their former vessel to help scrub rust, reinstall fixtures, and share their stories.
By the time the museum officially opened on August 18, 2020, fittingly, the Day of Bulgarian Submariners, Slava had transformed into an emotionally charged monument to the past. And the restoration continues today, with new compartments being reopened and more artifacts being added regularly.
The Perfect Day Trip
Conveniently located just 20 minutes west of Varna, Beloslav is easily accessible by car or local transport. The town itself is a quiet retreat with its own charms, including the Beloslav Glass Museum, which showcases the town’s rich tradition of glassmaking and artistry. The proximity of the two museums makes for a compelling cultural double bill: one celebrating creativity, the other courage.
You can go by yourself or book a trip.
Tours of Slava run from Wednesday through Sunday, at hourly intervals from 10:00 AM to 3:00 PM. Each visit includes a guided walkthrough and plenty of time to explore at your own pace.
From Combat to Curiosity
In a world overflowing with glossy tourist attractions and photo-op destinations, the submarine Slava stands apart. It offers substance. This is a place for thoughtful travelers, for curious minds, for anyone who wants to understand what it meant to serve underwater, to face fear in silence, and to emerge with pride in the Cold War era.
There’s something deeply human about this cold steel behemoth and its restauration which one can enjoy today. Yes, it’s a war machine and a space of memory of hard work, discipline, and national service. And thanks to the people, that memory has been preserved not as a relic, but as a living, breathing experience.
So next time you’re lounging on Varna’s golden sands, consider making a detour, just 20 minutes inland and at the same time on the shore, for a very different kind of thrill. Because sometimes, the most unforgettable experiences happen not above the waves, but far beneath them.